Tuesday, November 5, 2013

GE GSS25LGMB compressor not working - DO NOT PANIC!

Synopsis: This article will teach you how in 15 minutes you can fix your  I fixed my GE GSS25LGMB which is melting because its compressor is not working. It will also explain why it takes 90 minutes to do a 15 minutes job. To make it more accessible and appealing to the masses it also includes a subtle reference to Hitchhiker's guide to the galaxy, which, in case you do not know, is/was/will be the best selling book ever published by the great...oh never mind!
Enjoy!


Exactly 90 minutes ago, at 11 PM on a usually busy Monday during which we received yet another truckload of TV boards to repair, it finally dawned on me during my last quick visit to the kitchen that the floor water I've been running into during the past few trips and bravely ignoring wasn't there from the usual suspects.

Everyone is asleep at this God blessed hour and I feel almost like Head Of Household. Those of you married with kids would know what I mean, the rest can just take it as a tasteless attempt at humor.

Anyway, there were water leaks to the front, right and under the fridge which left little room for confusion as to the source and when I opened the freezer door and saw the action there there was no doubt: the packs of expensive, organic and spouse purchased meat was starting to melt and I was about to get in big trouble as soon as the real Head Of Household would have the ability to assess the facts.

The symptoms: melting ice, leaking fridge, suspiciously quiet.

I knew I was onto something there with it being quiet. It's a 10+ year old GE GSS25LGMB  and lately it hasn't been overly quiet.
I could hear the fan, but nothing else.

The compressor was definitely dead.

Oh no!!!

After quickly considered my options I reasoned that:

1) Calling a tech in the morning is probably not a good idea. I've blogged before about my opinion of TV technicians who come to your house and it isn't high and it isn't any different for any other people who come to your house to work on it (lawn mowers excluded).
99% of the time they charge you tons of money for something they could have told you over the phone and have you fix by yourself.
Like I am doing here, only I'm kind of making you read through my attempts at creative writing.

2) Getting up early and catching a plane to Alaska or elsewhere then playing no consent to the rotten meat case. I knew they would eventually catch up on me though, so that was also off.

3) Going to HomeDepot or Frys and buying the first discounted fridge that would fit the bill. Brand new, after all, discounted and I'd be in and out by 10:20 AM, which, with some help from God, could actually save the meat and my head.

So I went to bed and was almost happily falling asleep when it hit me: how could I possibly buy a new refrigerator without consulting my spouse?!
And if I did how on Earth would that end up in time for the meat to be saved?!
We'd have to go to every appliance store in the greater Dallas area and find all the bargains, then research the reviews for each of the available models, weight the data, go out again, find that the model we've almost chosen is no longer available, go back home, do some more research, feed the baby, go to work, have sex argue a bit, and what not.

So I got up, got to Google and found this:
http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/refrigerator-freezer-repair/26780-gss25lgmb-bb.html

(you should note I am an honest and decent person giving credit where it's due!)
If you are lazy, here is the above article in pictures:

1) The label on the inside of my fridge as a proof that this story is true and correct to the best of my knowledge.


 2) The main control board AP4436216 located behind a cover in the lower right section at the back of the fridge. Taking out the plate was easy enough and fetching the board required long pliers to press a little the two plastic holders that held the board in place.
In order to get access I had to disconnect the water line from the wall, which even I could do since there was a faucet in the wall that stopped the water. With an adjustable wrench I just unscrewed the blocking bolt and the water line was off the wall in no time!


3) Another look at main control board AP4436216. It is sure used in other GE fridge models and it is going to have the same issue there.


4) Getting closer and closer to the problem. Can you see it from here?


 5) You MUST be able to see it now!

So long story short, I used a sharp screwdriver and cleaned the track around the burned pin.
It turned out there was actually NOTHING left around the hole so I had to scratch off the protective layer above the track for a good 5-8 millimeters, then cleaned it well, soldered it and soldered some thick wires to the hole where I soldered them to the pin of the relay.

Sorry, no picture for that...it was getting late and it's a trade secret anyway :-)

It took a total of 90 minutes, pretty much 75 of which was cleaning, pushing, emptying, turning, unscrewing and reading on Internet.

Actual job of taking out the board, finding the problem and fixing it was no more than 15 minutes.
Granted, I am handy with soldering.
You should be too, this is a TV repair blog after all!

Now, in conclusion I'll add two things:

1) I've had another article about a problem with the AC in the house failing.  Here it is:
http://blog.coppelltvrepair.com/2010/10/fix-for-furnace-fan-not-blowing-carrier.html

It is amazing how the problem is exactly the same!

It is easy to see how those problems must be all around the place and field technicians are making sweet and easy money on your back just coming to the house and charging you hundreds of dollars for something you can do in 15 minutes.

You really can, even if you have to spend another 15 minutes watching videos how to solder!

2) I've had another problem with my GE GSS25LGMB fridge lately: it would not dispense water.
After reading on Internet I found that this is a common problem caused by water freezing near the dispenser and the solution to which is to install a warmer so that the water (in the freezer) does not freeze.
Installing stuff sounded even worse than paying money for it so after some experimenting I ended up with the following simple solution, which has been rocket solid ever since I implemented it:




Pictured are the open freezer door and a piece of thermal insulation. It is attached by the widely popular and never aging system involving Scotch tape and some more Scotch tape. The material itself would have been Styrofoam if I had one handy , but I didn't so it is the stuff we use to put large ICs on to protect their pins.
Don't know what is its name, always been curious to learn, but it's also good for cushioning.
As I said the water never froze ever after put it there.

Well...it wasn't even 90 minutes and it's totally free..what more could you possibly want?!

If you're in the DFW I'd be glad to come and do it for you for a standard flat rate of $400.

Your fridge will My fridge work like new in no time!


Saturday, October 19, 2013

Vizio P42HDTV10A repair - how to test for shorts

From today's mail:


Dear Coppell TV Repair,


    just got a Vizio P42hdtv10a in, it has a bad ysus board I think, how do I test for shorts?
 
This post comes at least 4 years before it should have been posted, but then again if emails keep arriving asking about it I guess it is not too late either.

Vizio P42HDTV10A is based on the same plasma display technology by LG (read: plasma display, sustain and buffer boards and main plasma logic controller which orchestrates them) as many , many other TVs from many, many other vendors.

There is a known culprit in the two sustain boards , which are practically wearable and certain to fail after so many hours of use.

To find out more just refer to a related post I've made a few years ago about troubleshooting HP PL4260N:
http://blog.coppelltvrepair.com/2011/02/hp-pl4260n-suddenly-lost-picture-how-to.html


And here are the related services that Coppell TV Repair provides:

http://www.coppelltvrepair.com/search?Q=P42HDTV10A+&As=false&Pf=&Pt=&Sid=false&btnsearch=Search

Wednesday, September 18, 2013

How to test LG EAY60968801 power supply board

LG EAY60968801 is used in a number of 50'' LG TVs from the PK series such as LG 50PK750-UA.

We often get asked how can the customer be certain that their EAY60968801 power supply is bad before sending it for repair.

Nobody likes wasting time and money on moving good stuff around, including us.

Well there's a REALLY simple way of testing that particular board - and many others.


We've actually already disscussed it in a past article for another similar board:

http://blog.coppelltvrepair.com/2013/04/lg-50pg20-not-turning-on-is-power-board.html

In a nutshell, if you disconnect all cables but the AC power cable and then connect to AC the board should click once and all output voltages on it, including Vs should be present.

If the board clicks once and then once more within a second or so then it is bad.

The key here is to make sure you disconnect the other cables!

And here's a link to the repair service for the board:
http://www.coppelltvrepair.com/p/500/eay60968801-eax6139250112-lg-power-supply-board-repair-service-for-dead-or-clicking-on-and-off-problem

Thursday, August 29, 2013

Olevia 237-T11 power AEP016-37 testing and repair

This is a quick pictorial guide on how to test the power supply AEP016-37 found in Olevia 237-T11 and the rest Olevia models that use the same power supply board.

There is also a link to a repair kit sold by Coppell TV Repair for the commonly found bad capacitors on the board.

The AEP016-37 power supply is not labeled , but is known to fail and if your Olevia 237-T11 (or other that use it) does not want to start up it may or may not be because of the power supply in it.

One nice way to avoid spending time and money is to just test the power supply out of the box and see if it produces the necessary voltages.

All you need is a simple voltmenter and some patience.

Of course along the way you will also be on the lookout for swollen / bulged capacitors.

Here is how AEP016-37 looks:


There are four bad capacitors on that picture, but because the picture was taken directly from the top it is not possible to see the bulging. Yet you can see the electrolyte spilled on top on some of them.

If you find bulging capacitors you should replace them. They may or may not be the source of your problems, but they are easy to replace and guaranteed to cause troubles eventually, so you might as well take care of them right away.


AEP016-37 does not have indication on the output connector pin layout, so I've created one for you:



Upon connecting AC power and turning on the power board with the switch located next to the AC connector only the +5V standby voltage is present.

It is measured to any of the GROUND / GND pins on any of the output connectors.

To activate the power supply you need to SHORT the pin next to it - the POWER_ON pin - with the +5V standby.

When you do that , the +5V main, the +18V and the +24V should also appear, all measured to ground.

Voila, that is all!

Good luck troubleshooting your Olevia 237-T11 or whatever other TV you have that has AEP016-37 inside!

Friday, July 26, 2013

EBR50267901 LG YSUS for ELEMENT PHD42W39US repair and exchange services now available

We were brought an Element PHD42W39US 42'' plasma which was powering on to no image.

Inside was the first case when I personally saw a plasma TV without a ZSUS (X-Main) sustain board ever and it spooked me for a while.

Turned out LG simply put both sustain modules on one board - the EBR50267901 in this case.

(I've later seen a very similar board - clearly the same design, but the ZSUS functionality was removed from it; I do not know which was later or newer, but clearly LG experimented with this one).

Oddly enough, it was exactly the ZSUS functionality that has failed and that has resulted in a dark image.

All the power FETs on the ZSUS side (heat sink HS906) were blown and in addition the little IC909 with the mysterious "1725" was also burned.

Finding out what that "1725" was proved to be a challenge.


If you need IC909 "1725" or the 45F123 power FETs you can drop me a line and I'll see what I can do.

Better yet, you may consider either sending your board for repair or buying a working EBR50267901with a cash back option upon sending your dud (without traces of previous repairs or tampering!):



Thursday, July 25, 2013

DELTA DPS-250AP-34 / Sony 1-474-095-12 G2D power supply test, repair and exchange

A hotel chain sent us a number of power supply boards DELTA DPS-250AP-34 for repair and we've collected some hands-on experience repairing them.

The board is used in a number of Sony LCD TVs (37'' and 42'') and its stock Sony part number is  1-474-095-12.

TESTING PROCEDURE
Upon connecting the board to AC it produces 3.3V standby voltage on the appropriately labeled pin on the CN602 connector located in the lower right corner of the board; the pin is third from bottom to top and is labeled "STBY3.3V" and the ground to measure those to is the 3rd, 4th and 5th pin from the top, accordingly labeled "SGND".

Upon shorting the STBY3.3V pin with the POWER_ON pin (which is the lowest on the CN602) connector the board should produce a swift click and output 24V on the CN603 connector as indicated on the labels.

If it does then it is most likely good.

The two problems we have seen were lack of standby voltage and lack of response from the board when activating it.

DPS-250AP-34 SERVICE AND EXCHANGE SERVICES




Thursday, July 18, 2013

SAMSUNG FP-T5084X/XAA dead, no response - repair kit for power board BN44-00175A

Just a quick note for the few owners of Samsung FP-T5084X/XAA (a.k.a. Samsung FPT5084) : the power supply in your TV has a known series of bad capacitors leading to a dead TV.

We could confirm that after we've had several units brought in for service over the course of the past month and they all had the same symptom - a totally dead TV with a very slight whining to be heard from the back (I guess not everyone might be able to hear it).

The FPT5084X/XAA would not respond to power on command from neither the standard power button nor the remote. They'd all just be totally dead.

My first thought was for a bad main board, but it turned out the same old power supply issue. In this case it was coming from power board BN44-00175A as shown below.

Here's the Samsung FP-T5084X/XAA without the back cover (click to enlarge):



And here are two of the problematic capacitors:



Given this is a Samsung plasma I'd expect problems with the Y-Main and buffer boards before anything, but in this case apparently not.

Here is a link to our store where you can get the replacement capacitors and possibly other kits and repair services for the Samsung FP-T5084X/XAA.