The Proview 3200 / Proview RX-326 is rather old and if you go through all the pain to actually disassemble it it may be worth to read this article to find if you can save a buck or two by repairing the power board and the main board by yourself rather than spending just south of $100 for a replacement of each.
These are the typical problems I am seeing with those TVs:
1) Completely dead TV - no front LED, nothing - suggests bad power board 02144-B306.
See this article for how to test it (note it's slightly different as its normal output is 12V and not 24V!) and if you need it repaired check the Coppell TV Repair online store.
2) TV comes on, but there's no display back-light. You may be able to see display changes with a flashlight or at the sun, but no back-light - that's either bad inverter or , very often, again bad power board.
See the links in the above case scenario for how to test the power board and send it for repair if you have to.
3) TV's standby light comes on, but when powered it either flashes green for a moment and then switches back to standby orange (or red) or switches to green, but display remains dark and you can't switch it back to standby color by pressing power, or display flashes for a second and then TV turns off, or sometimes it may turn on and stay on, but next time you try to turn it on it won't move...or any combination of the above.
This article is actually about that case...it's not only power board repair infomercial :-)
But, while at it, first and foremost again check the power board and make sure it produces reliable 12V on the primary as explained in our article.
If that's good then the problem is most likely on the main board 200-100-HX276 .
To make the long story short here's a picture of what you need to replace:
This picture was taken after the replacement was done.
The original capacitors were aluminum ones and did not show any signs of malfunctioning visible to the naked eye.
As you can see we've used standard replacements and not aluminum ones. In fact on this picture one of the larger ones is 680 uF. Don't ask - we just did it.
If you need the capacitors, drop us a note and we'll add a link for purchasing the four at a reasonable price. But the post here is with the main idea to share the know-how , not to benefit from selling the kit.
The replacement itself is not a rocket science, but is somewhat delicate partially due to the tight space.
Still way better than having to pay $90 plus shipping for a replacement board!
Tuesday, June 7, 2011
Sunday, May 8, 2011
Should I replace / repair one or both sustain boards in my plasma TV?
Dear Coppelltvrepair,
When one sustain board fails it does not affect functionality of the other.
Technically, however, ZSUS' functionality is still not affected in this case - the board is functional, only the power to it is cut.
Is it a design failure? Or is it simply badly built semiconductors?
Well, they wear out, that's what happens.
The example I like to give is two car tires on the road.
Often the second sustain board would fail fairly soon after the first - hours to days.
About equally often it may take weeks.
You do the math.
I have a blown fuse on my YSUS board, but not on the ZSUS. Do they need to be replaced in pairs, or can we just fix the YSUS? Thanks!!
- tightwadcowboy1954
We get this question all the time and we give the answers all the time, so once and for all we'll post the answer here and just point people to it.
Right answer: It depends.
Short answer: Yes - service both.
Long answer: Read below.
What are sustain boards and what do they do?
Every plasma TV that we know has two sustain boards - Y-SUS and Z-SUS (also sometimes called X-SUS).
Short answer: Yes - service both.
Long answer: Read below.
What are sustain boards and what do they do?
Every plasma TV that we know has two sustain boards - Y-SUS and Z-SUS (also sometimes called X-SUS).
Below is a picture of a randomly picked plasma which shows their location, which is again the same in all plasma TVs that we have seen this far. You can click on the image to see it in full size.
Y-Sustain and Z-Sustain have very similar functions, but, as can be seen, the YSUS is a bit larger than the ZSUS. It also produces output that goes into what's called YSUS BUFFER board(s) which in turn output to the plasma display whereas the ZSUS outputs directly to the plasma display.
It is because the YSUS does a little more work than the ZSUS. Roughly said, while the ZSUS activates all display lines at once (thus affecting the whole display at the same time) the YSUS, with the help of the buffers, is able to activate (technically address) the individual lines on the display.
Other than that, though, they do pretty much the same thing.
The two boards work together on the display in order to produce proper images, however they do not need each other in order to function. In other words the function of one does not affect the function of the other.
They work on the display practically independently from one another, only in a fashion synchronized by another board, so that you get to see what you want to see.
Direct conclusion from the above is that with some exceptions
When one sustain board fails it does not affect functionality of the other.
In other words if your YSUS failed that should not and usually do not affect your ZSUS and the other way around.
The most notable exception that I can think of is when one of the boards takes power from the other and not directly from the power board. This is the case in some LG 50'' models where the ZSUS 6871QYH044 takes power through the YSUS 6871QYH039; when YSUS fails it may burn the fuse and thus cut ZSUS from power.
Technically, however, ZSUS' functionality is still not affected in this case - the board is functional, only the power to it is cut.
Which is to explain and underscore that functionality of one sustain is not affected by the other.
Still, it is affected by something completely different, which suggests
It may still be better to service or replace both sustain boards at the same time.
Here is what it is:
Sustain boards are the hardest working boards in plasma TVs. Many of them, especially those designed in the early plasma technology years - 2001 to 2005 - are improperly designed and/or improperly built so that they work at too high temperatures.
As you should know from your basic physics course matter expands when its temperature raises and shrinks when temperature lowers.
The higher the temperature differences, the bigger the physical difference.
This cycle of expansion and shrinking , let's call it thermo-cycle, is also affecting other properties of the matter than its size. It also changes its electrical and mechanical properties.
Those changes are practically aging of the matter and, most simply put
Most plasma sustain boards have practically limited life
To summarize: because they work on too high temperatures, their expansion/shrinking is too drastic and that leads out to too limited life expressed in failures every several years.
Is it a design failure? Or is it simply badly built semiconductors?
Was it done on purpose? Or was it just another side of the wild competition leading to lower quality?
I won't discuss those here. But I'll return to the question at hand:
What happens with your sustain boards during their life time?
Well, they wear out, that's what happens.
The example I like to give is two car tires on the road.
Road and friction do to car tires what marginal thermo-cycles do to semiconductors (and everything else actually).
So you've had two tires that have been working side by side for so long that they both got very worn out. You didn't see the treads, but if you were to look maybe you would have seen them.
And one sweet day one of your tires just couldn't take it anymore and blew. Just from wearing out.
Car tires - and semiconductors - are never really exactly the same, so they'd rarely wear out in the exact same way and burst out at the exact same time.
But you can make a very good guess as to the condition of your other tire or sustain when one of them bursts.
Granted,
sustain boards are NOT car tires after all
You don't risk your life or someone else's life when you watch TV.
Often the second sustain board would fail fairly soon after the first - hours to days.
About equally often it may take weeks.
It would be unusual to take months, but it is not unheard of.
Hopefully you get the point.
This is also why it is better to have a board serviced than replaced with a used working board
Of course it is best to replace it with brand new one, but this is often prohibitively expensive or even impossible. I personally wouldn't advise anyone to spend $250 for a brand new sustain board on a 42'' or even 50'' plasma TV made in 2005 or so. It's flat out insane, first because TV prices dropped a lot since then and second because we know now that soon that TV is likely to need at least another board replaced. $500 for service of a TV that can be replaced for $600? Thanks, but no thanks!
Service, on the other hand, ensures (when properly done) that the power components will be replaced with new ones.
Replacement with a used board obtained from a chop-shop like Discount-Merchant, ShopJimmy or eBay is going to replace one used board with another used board...with very short life expectancy.
You do the math.
Thursday, April 14, 2011
Web server temporarily down, missing website, blog images
We are going through the worst server failure we've had in 10 years.
Bear with us and please excuse the temporary problems associated with it - www.coppelltvrepair.com is down and most of the images at blog.coppelltvrepair.com are missing.
Unfortunately email is also down..for the time being you can only reach us through phone at 972 245 1979.
Bear with us and please excuse the temporary problems associated with it - www.coppelltvrepair.com is down and most of the images at blog.coppelltvrepair.com are missing.
Unfortunately email is also down..for the time being you can only reach us through phone at 972 245 1979.
Tuesday, April 12, 2011
Insignia NS-L42Q-10A / NS-L42X-10A does not power, bad power 715G3196-1
If your Insignia NS-L42Q-10A is completely dead upon connecting to power chances are it has bad power supply.
(come to think of it, the same is true for pretty much any electronic appliance, isn't it? :-)
Well in case of the NS-L42Q-10A and its sister NS-L42X-10A it is rather likely that it's the power board.
I've seen few of those already and they all had similar problem - lack of the standby 5V power and everything else from there on.
The power board's model is 715G3196-1 and it looks like this:
The problem was relatively easy to spot on the first of the boards and a little more obscure on the others.
It was the SMPS driver IC IC901 that was burned. On some boards it has shorted and that did burn a few other components in the circuit.
On some it was apparently burned open and although maybe a bit overheated the other components had survived the failure.
Based on those experiences we've assembled a simple repair kit containing the components that are most likely and usually burned - IC901, ZD906 and R950.
This blog is hopefully useful in confirming that this seems to be a common problem for this board and naming the components you need to pay attention to.
Granted, over time it may turn out there are other problems as well. We'll update the blog if and when we know more.
In the meantime, you can try and source the components by yourself or you can use our kit for what we consider a quite reasonable price.
If you don't then...well, good luck sourcing :-)
And if you don't feel like doing that by yourself...you can always contact us and send the board for repair service at Coppell TV Repair!
(come to think of it, the same is true for pretty much any electronic appliance, isn't it? :-)
Well in case of the NS-L42Q-10A and its sister NS-L42X-10A it is rather likely that it's the power board.
I've seen few of those already and they all had similar problem - lack of the standby 5V power and everything else from there on.
The power board's model is 715G3196-1 and it looks like this:
The problem was relatively easy to spot on the first of the boards and a little more obscure on the others.
It was the SMPS driver IC IC901 that was burned. On some boards it has shorted and that did burn a few other components in the circuit.
On some it was apparently burned open and although maybe a bit overheated the other components had survived the failure.
Based on those experiences we've assembled a simple repair kit containing the components that are most likely and usually burned - IC901, ZD906 and R950.
This blog is hopefully useful in confirming that this seems to be a common problem for this board and naming the components you need to pay attention to.
Granted, over time it may turn out there are other problems as well. We'll update the blog if and when we know more.
In the meantime, you can try and source the components by yourself or you can use our kit for what we consider a quite reasonable price.
And if you don't feel like doing that by yourself...you can always contact us and send the board for repair service at Coppell TV Repair!
Wednesday, April 6, 2011
How to test STK795-518 YSUS IPM for defects
This article will tell you a few quick checks for the most common failures found in Sanyo's STK795-518 used in YSUS board LJ92-01200A and a 50'' plasma sustain board (let me know the number if you have it!).
We at Coppell TV Repair do our best to protect ourselves and our customers from bad parts, but ultimately nobody would take care of the customer than the customer himself.
Of course by publishing such information we inevitably also continue to indicate our competitors some of which we are proud to see as subscribed followers of our blog.
For what it's worth, that's the nature of this business.
Competitors, feel free to copy this and post it on your sites...you are going to do it anyway, you might as well do it with our blessing.
Now back to the task at hand.
The tests described below are applicable with the IC on and off board. Of course we strongly recommend that you apply them before you solder any IC on the board - you'll save time and you'll also increase the odds of being able to return the IC back to the vendor with least worries.
Those tests are not complete in a sense that they do not guarantee that the IC will work properly.
But they clearly indicate if it is bad and while it's not guaranteed, we find that 99.9% of the time when an IC passes them it works good on a board.
It all boils down to detecting continuity (shorts) or low resistance (ohms) between certain pairs of pins on the module..
If you find one the STK795-518 is certainly bad.
The tests can be done with the IPM on or off the board.
Here's a picture of the pins of interest:
As you can see there are 4 points of interest - GND (Ground), Vs (supply power), SUS and ER, which are the two outputs for the sustain and energy recovery accordingly. Those two are shorted on the board, but on an actual IC are NOT connected to each other.
Here's the simple rule:
THERE MUST BE NO CONTINUITY (SHORT) BETWEEN ANY COMBINATION OF THOSE!
IF YOU FIND A SHORT THEN YOUR STK795-518 IS DEFECTIVE.
This is actually 100% correct for all other plasma IPM modules.
There are 4 inputs/outputs which result in 6 possible tests (Vs-GND, Vs-SUSout, Vs-ERout, GND-SUSout, GND-ERout, SUSout-ERout), but in reality two are the most common failures that we see in STK795-518:
We at Coppell TV Repair do our best to protect ourselves and our customers from bad parts, but ultimately nobody would take care of the customer than the customer himself.
Of course by publishing such information we inevitably also continue to indicate our competitors some of which we are proud to see as subscribed followers of our blog.
For what it's worth, that's the nature of this business.
Competitors, feel free to copy this and post it on your sites...you are going to do it anyway, you might as well do it with our blessing.
Now back to the task at hand.
The tests described below are applicable with the IC on and off board. Of course we strongly recommend that you apply them before you solder any IC on the board - you'll save time and you'll also increase the odds of being able to return the IC back to the vendor with least worries.
Those tests are not complete in a sense that they do not guarantee that the IC will work properly.
But they clearly indicate if it is bad and while it's not guaranteed, we find that 99.9% of the time when an IC passes them it works good on a board.
It all boils down to detecting continuity (shorts) or low resistance (ohms) between certain pairs of pins on the module..
If you find one the STK795-518 is certainly bad.
The tests can be done with the IPM on or off the board.
Here's a picture of the pins of interest:
Here's the simple rule:
THERE MUST BE NO CONTINUITY (SHORT) BETWEEN ANY COMBINATION OF THOSE!
IF YOU FIND A SHORT THEN YOUR STK795-518 IS DEFECTIVE.
This is actually 100% correct for all other plasma IPM modules.
There are 4 inputs/outputs which result in 6 possible tests (Vs-GND, Vs-SUSout, Vs-ERout, GND-SUSout, GND-ERout, SUSout-ERout), but in reality two are the most common failures that we see in STK795-518:
1) Vs shorted to one of the two sustain outputs:
2) The other sustain output shorted to ground:
Saturday, April 2, 2011
From the mailbox - no edits and no refunds!
If that blog was more advanced I'd have that as a thread and allow others to chime in.
I'll just post some of the requests and correspondences we have (if any), without any changes.
Some will be funny, some will be angry, some may even be rude.
Date: 28 May 2011
Subject: Y-sustain LJ92-01200A / LJ41-02759A REPAIR SERVICE
hi I have a tv using this board I bought the lower buffer off an ebayer and it was shorted and blew my y sus board. I basically destroyed the board i got from him . I have an upper buffer that is bad and 2 yus boards one is pulling the power supply down the other runs but when the upper buffer is plugged in the screen flashes every second before that lower buffer i tryed and was shorted i got lines on top half with no lower buffer installed, if i sent you the upper buffer and both logic boards how much would it cost me for a new set of y sus and both upper and lower buffer boards. this tv had a bad lower buffer and i took the ysus for another tv. I bought a replacement that worked unill i got the bad lower buffer I have 2 y sus boards and one upper buffer that is bad but not shorted. thanks Erik
CTVR: ... ?
Date: 28 Mar 2011
Subject: 1032298-HS YSUS BOARD HP PL4260N REPAIR SERVICE
Dear coppelltvrepair,
LGEPDP 051124............. MODEL:42V8&X3................. BOARD:YSUS............ PART NO:6870QYH005B ......... LOC:2XXX........... BOARD SIZE:285X194..... ICAN'T SEE THOSE 'CAUSE THE STICKER? IS FOR A PLASMA TV HP. ONE MORE QUESTION, IT'S WORKING THIS ITEM? THANK YOU
- camiloherevia1983
CTVR: Whatever he or she wants we decided wouldn't be able to provide it.
Date: 11 May 2011
Dear coppelltvrepair,
is i am buy this item or do send you this item
- jassnyder197979
I'll just post some of the requests and correspondences we have (if any), without any changes.
Some will be funny, some will be angry, some may even be rude.
Date: 28 May 2011
Subject: Y-sustain LJ92-01200A / LJ41-02759A REPAIR SERVICE
hi I have a tv using this board I bought the lower buffer off an ebayer and it was shorted and blew my y sus board. I basically destroyed the board i got from him . I have an upper buffer that is bad and 2 yus boards one is pulling the power supply down the other runs but when the upper buffer is plugged in the screen flashes every second before that lower buffer i tryed and was shorted i got lines on top half with no lower buffer installed, if i sent you the upper buffer and both logic boards how much would it cost me for a new set of y sus and both upper and lower buffer boards. this tv had a bad lower buffer and i took the ysus for another tv. I bought a replacement that worked unill i got the bad lower buffer I have 2 y sus boards and one upper buffer that is bad but not shorted. thanks Erik
CTVR: ... ?
Date: 28 Mar 2011
Subject: 1032298-HS YSUS BOARD HP PL4260N REPAIR SERVICE
Dear coppelltvrepair,
LGEPDP 051124............. MODEL:42V8&X3................. BOARD:YSUS............ PART NO:6870QYH005B ......... LOC:2XXX........... BOARD SIZE:285X194..... ICAN'T SEE THOSE 'CAUSE THE STICKER? IS FOR A PLASMA TV HP. ONE MORE QUESTION, IT'S WORKING THIS ITEM? THANK YOU
- camiloherevia1983
CTVR: Whatever he or she wants we decided wouldn't be able to provide it.
Date: 11 May 2011
Dear coppelltvrepair,
is i am buy this item or do send you this item
- jassnyder197979
Thursday, March 24, 2011
How to uninstall 6871QYH053B and compatible boards from 42'' plasma TV
People often ask me how to uninstall the YSUS board 6871QYH053B (or some of its compatible models - 6871QYH048B for example) from their 42'' plasma TV.
Coppell TV Repair services those boards and the question is natural considered we expect you to send us the board for repair.
This is a really quick tutorial that is board-independent and TV model independent.
It is important to say that while different board models do not have any differences in regards to dismantling procedure, the TV models may make it a bit different as to how do you get to the board.
Again, this short guide is aiming at all models and I will point out where differences are expected.
To uninstall the board, first lay the TV flat on the floor, face down.
Unscrew and remove the base, as most of the time it gets in the way. Sometimes it does not, but we usually remove it when we work on a TV.
After taking all the bolts of the cover (and sometimes ones that we shouldn't take out) and removing the cover we look at something like this:
On all plasma TVs that I have seen the YSUS is on the left and the ZSUS is on the right. They look differently in different makes and models, but they are always left and right and YSUS is always a bit bigger than ZSUS.
Otherwise they share a lot of functionality and, logically, appearance.
Anyway, the trick to pulling out the YSUS is usually getting access to the lower right corner of the board where there's a screw in the corner and - in this case - a very fragile flat ribbon cable connector.
To get to there, you often need to uninstall and move the whole central block assembly containing the main board:
In this case, there were two bolts on each side that were holding the assembly, plus three more on the bottom that were holding an L shaped metal supporting the assembly by tying it to the chassis.
In your case this may be slightly different and in some cases you may also need to remove the vertically standing support bar used for both wall mounting and construction support. At least we've done it a few times but most of the times - possibly always - you can get away without having to do that.
After all the bolts affixing the main board assembly are removed, you can simply pull it up and/or push it to the side:
As I said what you're aiming at is access to the lower right screw of the YSUS board and, of course, the fragile connector P8 just above it.
This is how the beast looks up-close:
Again, it is OK that your cable is white and ours is not. We're the pros, we can afford better cables, wink-wink.
The cable in your TV will likely be white and not orange-brownish as in our picture. Do not pay attention to the color and please do not call to ask if that is a sign of anything. It isn't.
To uninstall the cable, you need to flip the right side of the brown plastic covering the flex cable so that from horizontal it turns vertical. The hinges are at the ends on the left side and are extremely fragile.
I hear there are special tools that let you open it, but I am old school with fingernails and do it this way:
If you can't make a difference between the two pictures, look at how the brown cover is already flipped up on the second one.
The trick for me is to have relatively wide access of the force that pulls up and to also push a little bit inwards in addition to upwards.
Wide contact is necessary so that you actually make the whole length of the cover to wish to turn up. If you apply force only in one point in the middle the brown cover will likely bend and break the hinges.
So if you are using a screwdriver make sure you get one with wider tip.
A great idea is to use two fingers if you can do it - pointing and middle finger work great.
Coppell TV Repair services those boards and the question is natural considered we expect you to send us the board for repair.
This is a really quick tutorial that is board-independent and TV model independent.
It is important to say that while different board models do not have any differences in regards to dismantling procedure, the TV models may make it a bit different as to how do you get to the board.
Again, this short guide is aiming at all models and I will point out where differences are expected.
To uninstall the board, first lay the TV flat on the floor, face down.
Unscrew and remove the base, as most of the time it gets in the way. Sometimes it does not, but we usually remove it when we work on a TV.
After taking all the bolts of the cover (and sometimes ones that we shouldn't take out) and removing the cover we look at something like this:
On all plasma TVs that I have seen the YSUS is on the left and the ZSUS is on the right. They look differently in different makes and models, but they are always left and right and YSUS is always a bit bigger than ZSUS.
Otherwise they share a lot of functionality and, logically, appearance.
Anyway, the trick to pulling out the YSUS is usually getting access to the lower right corner of the board where there's a screw in the corner and - in this case - a very fragile flat ribbon cable connector.
To get to there, you often need to uninstall and move the whole central block assembly containing the main board:
In this case, there were two bolts on each side that were holding the assembly, plus three more on the bottom that were holding an L shaped metal supporting the assembly by tying it to the chassis.
In your case this may be slightly different and in some cases you may also need to remove the vertically standing support bar used for both wall mounting and construction support. At least we've done it a few times but most of the times - possibly always - you can get away without having to do that.
After all the bolts affixing the main board assembly are removed, you can simply pull it up and/or push it to the side:
As I said what you're aiming at is access to the lower right screw of the YSUS board and, of course, the fragile connector P8 just above it.
This is how the beast looks up-close:
Again, it is OK that your cable is white and ours is not. We're the pros, we can afford better cables, wink-wink.
The cable in your TV will likely be white and not orange-brownish as in our picture. Do not pay attention to the color and please do not call to ask if that is a sign of anything. It isn't.
To uninstall the cable, you need to flip the right side of the brown plastic covering the flex cable so that from horizontal it turns vertical. The hinges are at the ends on the left side and are extremely fragile.
I hear there are special tools that let you open it, but I am old school with fingernails and do it this way:
If you can't make a difference between the two pictures, look at how the brown cover is already flipped up on the second one.
The trick for me is to have relatively wide access of the force that pulls up and to also push a little bit inwards in addition to upwards.
Wide contact is necessary so that you actually make the whole length of the cover to wish to turn up. If you apply force only in one point in the middle the brown cover will likely bend and break the hinges.
So if you are using a screwdriver make sure you get one with wider tip.
A great idea is to use two fingers if you can do it - pointing and middle finger work great.
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